![speed of powders accurate 5 hp38 speed of powders accurate 5 hp38](https://img.yumpu.com/28152051/1/500x640/357-magnum-load-data-intokunet.jpg)
Bullsye is so fine, it gums up my measures. I like W231 (over Bullseye) because it's clean, meters well, and is very accurate. I can only guess at velocity, but "duplicating" anything always presumes that that sought to duplicate is somehow "better." (which is silly). 45 acp I own (some of which are pictured below) shoots this load reliably and accurately. I'm quite happy going through life shooting (95% of my loads) with 5.2 grains of W231 (same powder as HP-38) behind a 200 grain lead SWC (match bullet).Įvery. A lot of people complain about Unique being dirty, but it has been around for over 100 years for a good reason - it works.
Speed of powders accurate 5 hp38 full#
For full power loads with full weight bullets, powders in the medium burning range work much better, particularly in the compact barrel lengths. They work great at the reduced velocities suitable for that endeavor. The very fast powders like Bullseye, HP-38, etc., were intended for target loads where you are shooting huge amounts of ammo in practice and matches. That should give you close to 830 even in the shorter barrel. If you want more velocity, then I'd switch to something like Unique in 6.0-6.5 gr. 775 or so in a Commander is about what I'd expect. On the velocity, standard in a 5" is 830 fps with 230 gr. Measured diameter of the loaded round at the mouth should fall between. Use a taper crimp die to remove the bell from the case mouth. Would crimping make a difference? I guess it was around 60 degrees when I shot yesterday. Mine definitely aren't +P.Įverything I have read put the difference in f/s between the Gov't model and the Commander around 50-60 f/s slower for the Commander. I saw one chart where 6.3, 6.4, 6.5 were considered +P. I saw it anywhere from 1.19 up to 2.70 and they were gettting the same f/s. I did more research last night, and it seems that the COL doesn't matter that much. I may go to an all black or gold bead fat front blade with wider notch at some point. I changed my sights to Trijicon, 3 dot, tritiums. I resisted changing the stock pistol but I came to teh realization it will be in my possession forever and I needed to make it functional. I shot it with factory (1970's vintage) sights for a year plus. 470 or there abouts and see if that works in the M&P. I am going to tighten my "crimp" slightly. In the commander there has never been an issue. I have had some fail to feed in the M&P using the rounds I loaded for my Commander. Due to variances in brass/bullet that is not possible to consistently hit.Īs a note I just got a S&W M&P. That would be the ideal measurement of round diameter at the case mouth. Measure the thickness of your brass wall, multiply that measurement by 2, than add the diameter of your round. This will mess with your headspace and ruin accuracy. The 45 ACP headspaces of the case so you dont want to form the brass to a taper. Think of it as ironing the brass back flat to the projectile. My rounds run through the crimper but I am only removing the minimal bell opened to allow the bullet to seat.